Courage, sacrifice, determination, commitment, toughness, heart, talent, guts. That's what little girls are made of.
I don't know how long I'll be competing, but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.
To lose your everyday life of surfing and being creative on waves, enjoying the ocean - that's scary to me. It was essential to at least try surfing again and get out there and see how it went.